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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hXyugAyGr0
Building a saw vice to sharping my saws
Source: LumberJocks.com
TIW Ep. 50 Saw Sharping Building a Saw Vice Part 1
Friday, February 28, 2014
TIW Ep. 50 Saw Sharping Building a Saw Vice Part 1
TIW Ep. 50 Saw Sharping Building a Saw Vice Part 1
Building the Ultimate Garage Woodshop #6: Pimp My Table Saw (EYE Candy)
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Not much progress on the actual garage lately… I’m waiting for someone to help me put the electrical together. Its a little over my head, since I need to reroute entire circuits, add 220, etc.
So instead I’ve been working on my table saw.
Here’s where it started, with a used DeWalt 746 hybrid table saw. Honestly I’ve never given Hybrids much thought. I had always drooled over the new Unisaw and Sawstop. But I came across this little gem and love it! Its powerful (2hp), smooth, quiet, portable, and has full dust collection around the blade. And it was a killer deal.
And since my new shop is even smaller than my old shop, I am unfortunately going to have to downsize somehow. So I am combining my table saw and router table, and SELLING this:
For Sale: $350 obo (the materials alone cost more than that) Send me a message if you are interested
I loved my router table. But it is huge, and I don’t have the space anymore. But the main advantage of combining my router table/saw is that I can use the same Incra fence for both 
I just need to set a series of calibrated stops for the router and saw. I will need two positions for the saw, at 0-16” and 16-32”, since I only have the 17” positioner (if you are familiar with Incra products you will know what I mean. http://www.incramentaltools.com) But the positioner holds several sliding scales so I can have one dedicated to each position.
Here is the beginning of the fence installation, for which I only needed to order the TS rails. I am just using the positioner off the old router table:
Once the fence rails were installed, I built the two table saw wings/extensions. My DW 746 came with those flimsy stamped steel extensions. So I removed them and built my own with two layers of 3/4” birch plywood, surrounded by a hardwood boarder and white laminate on top.
Once these were mounted to the TS rails on the saw, I used my original router template to cut the opening for the router lift. I had actually saved it from when I made my first router table… just in case!
Then I used the Incra fence, which was conveniently already installed, as a guide to rout a channel for the router miter track, which went just a few inches to the left of the router.
Finally I added a zero-clearance insert and after a little tuning up, my saw was pretty much complete!
I think the only thing left is to build a box around the router lift for dust collection and noise reduction. It will also include a magnetic safety switch.
Source: LumberJocks.com
Building the Ultimate Garage Woodshop #6: Pimp My Table Saw (EYE Candy)
#6 reminder to myself, don't forget to account for dados
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I’ve been tossing a bunch of ideas around for a stand for my planer. Even bought a plan for a flip-top cart to hold the planer and a sander I will eventually purchase. I decided not to build that and go with something small and functional that will fit under my table saw.
After taking some rough measurements, and drawing a little sketch on napkin, I headed to HD to grab a sheet of maple ply.
I knew I wanted it about 11” high. Then with 3.5” castors and the 20” planer it’ll be about 35” high or so and will fit comfortably under the wing of the TS.
Also I figured about 26” wide and 20” deep should give me a little room and make it a bit more stable with the planer bolted on it.
I then started cutting up the ply and got all pieces done…
Happy, thinking everything was well on the way, I set up the dado stack and began making all the dados for the whole stand. I then attempted a dry fit and much to my disappointment, I realized I made a total noob mistake and forgot to account for the dados. the 2 sides fit in nicely to the bottom but the back was 3/4” short… I cursed and MFd myself for making a stupid mistake. I thought about making it work and just running it like that. That idea didn’t last long and decided I just had to recut the rest of the pieces and take it as a learning experience.
I recut all the needed pieces and made my dados. I started the glue up and now added the castors on.
I then sanded it down with my mouse sander with 80g, 120g, and 220g.
I put a sealer coat of spray shellac on it and decided to mess around with the finish a little. I had some left over brown paint and some black spray paint and decided to use both, not sure what this technique is called, but kinda spot painted streaks in the whole cart. 1 coat black, then brown, and then filled in any gaps with black again.
Now I’m finishing it with spray poly… I put 2 coats on and the next day sanded with 220g. Then added another coat and went over with 320g. Another coat of poly let dry and will hit with 400g. I have some 1000g wet/dry paper that I’m going to try as well… I also have some pumice stone and rotten stone that I’m going to attempt to bring this piece to a high gloss. (basically just for practice)
I also bought some full extension drawer slides and will attempt to make my first real drawer with slides… I’m going to edge the top with a piece of poplar I have and will probably make the pulls with it as well.
Hopefully I can have it all done in a few days, but tonight is my Monday so time is a little tight.
Source: LumberJocks.com
#6 reminder to myself, don't forget to account for dados
How to Replace a Cord Lock in a Wood Blind
This short video will demonstrate how you can replace a cord lock in your wood or faux wood blinds. For information on blind parts, string and instruction – …
How to Replace a Cord Lock in a Wood Blind
Heritage Roofing Inc.
For quality roofing, repair and renovation, trust Heritage Roofing Incorporated in the…
Heritage Roofing Inc.
Hand Tool School #2: Semester 1 - Project 2 - Sawbench
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I had been looking forward to building the saw bench for a while. I really struggle with sawing to a line. I know that it takes practice, but sawing at bench height is a real pain. Having the use hold fasts or clamps to hold the board, trying to see your line at that height, not being able to get the full effect of letting gravity help, etc. I looked for a board that I could have a final 1” thickness for the top to no avail. I did not feel like making the top out of any premium lumber which is what I was looking for. I ended up using premium pine for the legs and stretchers and 2
Hand Tool School #2: Semester 1 - Project 2 - Sawbench
How To Show Your Car Your Love
Designing Spaces follows a busy Mom as she takes her car in for a body transformation. She learns how car exteriors age, and what can be done to transform it…
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update!!!!!!!!!
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i have not been working on my finale project do to the fact at thye end of the third nine weeks is a box jointed project due. when i am finished i will post pictures to show my awesome work that i do in mr.roccos class. thats all i really have for you guys today ill be posting my updates asap!!!
Source: LumberJocks.com
update!!!!!!!!!
Stickley #369 Morris Chair #2: Frame Assembly and Through Tenons
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Here is where the project is at currently.
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Before I angle the top side rails, I mark the height of the small tenon.
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Then I trim away the excess tenon at the bandsaw. 
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Fitting the small tenon into the back leg mortises. 
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The joint looks a little peculiar at this point because the top rails have not been angled yet. 
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With the frame dry fit I can measure the height of the side slats. 
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With the repeater set up on my miter saw, I cut the 10 slats to the same length. 
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Then slats are milled for tenons at the dado blade. 
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Now it is time to cut the armrests. With a new blade on the bandsaw I cut the 7 degree taper for the armrests. Notice how two armrests are ganged together for extra stability as I make this freehand cut. 
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Move the wedge from the top to the bottom of the armrest and glue it in place, smooth side to smooth side. 
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While the glue was drying, I cut tenons on 8/4 stock for the back slats. Note how the tenons are offset. 
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My last task of the day was to taper the upper side rails to 7 degrees. I thought the cut could be made with a tapering sled at he tablesaw, but realized doing so would have cut off part of the small tenon. So I decided to make the cut at the bandsaw with an angled block as a guide. I am leaving my upper side rails 1/4” wider than usual. This extra width will fit in a groove on the underside of the armrest (the WoodSmith Shop trick). 
Next up will be fitting the armrests and through tenons.
Cheers!
Source: LumberJocks.com
Stickley #369 Morris Chair #2: Frame Assembly and Through Tenons
How To Clean your furnace flame sensor
Is your furnace starting intermittently? Or, is your furnace not working all together? Before you call a heating company …
How To Clean your furnace flame sensor
Workbench build - roubo #3: End caps
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For the end caps I decided to use some walnut I bought a while ago. I went with a standard C-channel end cap. I really wanted to do a sliding dovetail, but it seemed a little too difficult at this point in my woodworking.
First I cut a straight edge with my circular saw across the end. I flipped it over and offset my cut 1/16” and finished the cut. Then I used a pattern bit and cleaned up the 1/16” excess. I read somewhere this method was much easier that attempting to match up the circular saw cuts, and I think that is true. This is prior to cutting the shoulders for the end cap.
To cut the shoulders (not really sure what to call them), I considered using a router. It seemed like that would take forever and I always seem to wobble the router and take out a chunk and screw up the project. So I used my circular saw. I set the depth @ 15/16” and setup a cutting guide. I made several straight cuts, then I slightly turned the saw and pushed it through. The saw guide prevented me from unnecessarily cutting into the benchtop (beyond the edge of the end caps). I learned this method watching my father in law cut dadoes in 6
Workbench build - roubo #3: End caps
SP Home Run Weekly Update Newsletter - February 17, 2014
SP Home Run Weekly Update Newsletter February 17, 2014 View in Browser
SP Home Run Weekly Update Newsletter - February 17, 2014
Water Removal Port St Lucie | Certified Priority Restoration | 772-202-3322
Water Removal Port St Lucie | Certified Priority Restoration Water Removal in Port St.Lucie …
Water Removal Port St Lucie | Certified Priority Restoration | 772-202-3322
Expert Advice: Every Woman Loves a Contractor
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Every woman (and man) should love their contractor. Why? Because the contractor is like the glue of a project. While an architect creates and oversees the design, the contractor and his team of workers—subcontractors—executes the vision. It’s the contractor who you will always find on site and he’s the person everyone turns to for help and problem solving as construction progresses. We asked Sonoma-based general contractor Erio Brown to fill us in on the crucial things to consider and how to find the contractor who is right for your job.
Photography by Liesa Johannssen for Remodelista.
Remodelista: What’s the biggest mistake people make when hiring a contractor?
Erio Brown: Sometimes people hire a contractor only because he or she came in with the lowest bid. You should try to hire a contractor who has a good reputation, someone who comes to you through referral. There are contractors who will lowball a bid in order to get the job and then bury the client with change orders—a change to the original scope of work on the contract—that can be costly. Always ask for references and then interview the contractor’s previous clients if you can.
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Above: Erio Brown reviews plans on site.
RM: How do you make the experience a collaborative thing and not just a business transaction?
EB: Yeah, this can be a tough transition to make, but I think it’s very important. The bottom line is the client needs work done on their home or business, and they have a limited budget. The contractor needs to earn enough to cover all of the materials, plus labor, insurance, etc, and still make a profit. During the bidding process, the client and contractor are figuratively sitting across the table from one another. But once the contract is signed and an agreement is reached, it is critical that they are now on the same side of the table and it becomes a partnership.
Above: A Sonoma house in progress designed by architect, Robert Baumann; Brown is working on the project as subcontractor to Jon Curry of Landers Curry.
RM: How do you begin the process?
EB:I always try to have the initial meeting at the project site, even if it’s a bare patch of land. This helps put the client at ease because we’re meeting on their turf, and, of course it’s necessary in order for me to get a real sense of the project. That first meeting is really to see if you have a connection, and that first impression is important. Also, if the homeowner signs the contract in the contractor’s office it’s very difficult to cancel. But if the contract is signed at the homeowner’s property, then you have three days to cancel.
Above: Brown mocks up a stair banister design to show the Sonoma client.
RM: Do you work with your clients on site?
EB: This should be a real partnership and there should never be a problem with the homeowner coming by the job at any time. Many times the client will just walk around the job and then leave without saying a word. They may want to give their friends a tour. It also allows the contractor and homeowner to work together and really fine-tune the project. I am a big proponent of doing mock-ups that allow the homeowners to really see how how a design feature is going to look. It can be difficult to envision how something like window trim or a stair banister is going to turn out if you’re just looking at the plans. We keep a supply of materials on hand to do quick mock-ups.
Above: Brown measures the size of a deck on a blueprint.
RM: How do you navigate working with an architect and a client?
EB: This is another good question to ask a potential contractor. Smaller-scale projects can be handled by the homeowner and the builder. For a bigger remodel or a new construction, the homeowner will hire an architect and once the plans are complete, they’ll start to interview contractors. There is a lot that goes on behind the scenes between the contractor and the architect, so I work to have a good relationship with the architect. You can ask your architect to recommend some builders that he or she has worked with and who know how to build houses in the style in question.
Above: A custom bathroom vanity raised in place at floor level and ready for the tiles to be placed underneath.
RM: Things a client should consider ahead of time?
EB: Clients often wonder why they have to commit to so many details ahead of time. Sometimes they want to see the house framed and the drywall installed before they decide on what materials to select, but a lot of decisions need to happen early in the process. For example, we need to know what flooring material they would like because the thickness of the floor should relate to the door thresholds and built-in cabinets, which means the client has to decide what goes on the floor. If the tile is selected early in the process, then we can adjust the framing so that we’ll be able to use full tiles and not have odd cuts. This is important in showers and for kitchen backsplashes. And knowing the size of door and window trim means we know how to place light switches and outlets. It’s better to spend the time in the beginning than to fix it later. Spending some additional time in the beginning can save money down the road and you’ll end up with a much better project when it’s completed.
Above: This window is mocked up to enable the client to decide the width of the trim and review the wood that will be used on the interior walls.
RM: Ideal/dream client?
EB: I really like to work with people who are excited about their project. This is their home and it is a very personal space, so I want them to be very involved. I spent many years working as a builder on feature films and TV, so I really like it when a client wants to try something ambitious or creative.
Above: In the Sonoma master bedroom under construction, the placement and size of the bed has already been determined so that outlets can be installed in the right spots on either side of the bed.
RM: Are there certain projects you won’t take on?
EB: That’s a tough question because many contractors don’t have the luxury of turning down jobs. Our industry has had it rough for the last few years. That said, I’ve turned down a number of jobs because something about the project didn’t work for me. Some jobs are too far away and mean I would spend too much time driving and not be able to give the project the time it deserves. That’s a good reason to hire a local builder. I just had to turn down a very interesting new house because the client and architect wanted to use a new building technique that I’m not familiar with, and I didn’t feel I could get the project done on time and in budget.
Above: A crew member at work on the galvanized roof.
RM: Do you ever work long distance with a client?
EB: We work long distance with clients often. It does slow down the project a little bit, because there can be a delay in decision making. But in this age of laptops and smart phones, it’s much easier to work together from afar. I love being able to email or text photos right from the job site and have real time interaction with the client. FaceTime is invaluable.
Above: Brown discusses building details with Jon Curry; the two often collaborate.
RM: Final thoughts on finding a good contractor?
EB: Definitely aim to find someone through a direct referral or word of mouth. A contractor’s reputation is very important, and a reputable builder will work very hard to keep clients happy and not burn bridges. Ask friends or neighbors about who worked on their house, and about the whole experience. You want to find out if the project stayed on budget, if the work was done well, and if the contractor checked in after the job was complete. I don’t do any advertising and I am the first to admit that I’m terrible at self promotion; that’s why my reputation is so important: I only get jobs through client referral and I also rely heavily on real estate agents, architects, and designers. Yelp or Angie’s list can be good resources for doing some additional research after you’ve found a contractor you’re considering hiring. If you’re in California, you should also always check with the Contractors State License Board, a site where you can make sure your potential contractor has a valid license that’s in good standing and is insured and bonded. [Each state has its own requirements and licensing board.] It can be tempting for a homeowner to hire an unlicensed builder because it might save some money, but hiring a licensed contractor really protects you as a homeowner.
For more advice from experts, check out our posts: 15 Secrets for Saving Money on Home Renovation, 15 Essential Tips for Designing the Kitchen, and 10 Essential Tips for Designing the Bathroom. And on Gardenista, see 10 Mistakes to Avoid when you Remodel.
N.B. Erio Brown is married to clothing designer and doll maker Jess Brown, who we featured in our post The Accidental Dollmaker.
Source: remodelista
Expert Advice: Every Woman Loves a Contractor
Thursday, February 27, 2014
Poor man's pen. AKA BIC pen
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So many people asked us for pens but when we give them the price, they dont like it at all. they dont know that we have to import all those parts and thats pricey(for us living here) then the S&H and then the duty which here is 15%.
so we decided to do BIC pens, we had done some before but the process of drilling the holes was a mess, i could not get the proper bit, then i got one but the centering of the blanks was a nightmare, some came off center and you noticed till turning them.
so with my dad we decided to do this:
They are 3/8
Poor man's pen. AKA BIC pen
New Issue of Domino (and Beautiful Neutrals)!
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Wonderful news! The new print issue of Domino is now on newstands! Technically it hits next week, but I found copies here in Arizona in groceries stores and at Barnes and Noble, so it should be everywhere. And guys, it’s really, really good.
The team shared a couple of sneak peek photos with me and invited me to pass them along to you. Both of the images feature mostly neutral interiors. You all know how much I love the concept of neutral backdrops with pops of color. It’s an easy recipe that works every time. Domino’s Editor-in-Chief, Michelle Adams, had this to say about this artist’s space:
Designers are gravitating towards pared down scandinavian-influenced interiors, using color to express their personalities. This artist, Jenna Snyder-Phillips, was influenced by her ink, oil and charcoal paintings. The neutral black and gray tones allow her art to take center stage and this sophisticated palette makes her 400 sq ft space feel grand.
And how gorgeous is this living room in the Harlem apartment of designer Ron Marvin? He was inspired by a Kravet fabric with lots of beautiful, neutral tones. I think all the textural elements in here really make this room sing!
Here are some items that I’m loving in neutral tones with a similar vibe to these beautiful Domino spaces:
Source: Little Green Notebook
New Issue of Domino (and Beautiful Neutrals)!
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